Wednesday, November 30, 2011

two vanilla caramels. zweierlei vanille karamell.





unwrap
hear the paper
crinkle

discover
the square caramel
so smooth

bite
into the soft candy
vanilla and caramel notes

chew
it might stick to the roof of your mouth
for longer pleasure


...


this caramel is soft and chewy.
full of vanilla goodness.
and really so easy to make
(with a candy thermometer!).

wouldn't this make a great christmas gift?



caramel version 1

210g sugar
60g glucose
125g butter
200g cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
pinch of salt

caramel version 2

100g sugar
60g brown sugar
42g glucose
10g butter
175g cream
10g water
pinch of salt


add all ingredients into a heavy bottomed pan (i use a cast iron pan). 
make sure the sides are high enough, or else your mixture might boil over.
set aside a cold water bath.
cook at medium heat while stirring to 117/118 degrees celcius.
for me, it took around 15-20 minutes.

be aware, it might take shorter or longer depending on you pan and your heat!

when the temperature is reached, cool down in the water bath.
then pour into a prepared buttered pan or into silicon molds.
wait a couple of hours (even better is overnight!) until the caramel is set to cut.
wrap in backing paper.
keep in a cool, dry place to avoid crystallization.


...


auspacken
höre wie das papier
knistern


entdecke
das quadratische karamell
wahnsinnig glatt


beisse
in das weiche konfekt
vanille und karamell noten


kaue
es könnte an deinem gaumen kleben bleiben
für längeren genuss


...



dieses karamell ist weich und es macht freude es zu kauen.
voll mit toller vanille.
und wirklich einfach zu machen
(mit einem zucker thermometer!).

würde das nicht ein tolles weihnachtsgeschenk machen?



karamell version 1

210g zucker
60g glucose
125g butter
200g sahne
1 tsp vanille extrakt
prise salz

karamell version 2

100g zucker
60g brauner zucker
42g glucose
10g butter
175g sahne
10g wasser
prise salz



füge alle zutaten in einem schweren topf zusammen (ich benutze eine guss eiserne pfanne).
achte darauf, dass dein topf hoch genug ist damit deine mischung nicht überkocht.
stelle ein kaltes wasserbad bereit.
koche, unter rühren, die mischung bei mittlere hitze bis 117/118 grad celcius.
bei mir dauerte es 15-20 minuten.

vorsicht: es könnte kürzer oder länger dauern, je nach art des topfes oder der zugefügten hitze!

wenn die temperatur erreicht ist, die pfanne im wasserbad kurz abkühlen.
daraufhin kann das karamell in eine gebutterte form oder silikonformen gegossen werden.
warte ein paar stunden (besser ist es sogar übernacht!) damit das karamell vollständig erkaltet und geschnitten werden kann.
in backpapier einpacken.
belasse das karamell an einem kühlen, trockenen ort um vorzeitige kristallisierung zu vermeiden.



jaques genin. @paris.





said to be the best caramel maker in paris, 
i set out to do the test.

i tried nature, chocolat, vanille and mangue.

they were superb. 
especially vanilla and mango made an impression.
they were all so soft and buttery,
but not oily and not exceptionally chewy.
they melted in your mouth.

and the mango flavored one.
sweet and tangy.
pure fruit flavor. 
not the cooked kind of flavor, 
the kind where you bit into a ripe piece of fresh picked fruit.

at 112 euro per kilo an expensive luxury.

...

gerühmt als der beste karamell hersteller in paris, 
beschloss ich den test zu machen.

ich probierte nature, chocolat, vanille und mangue.

sie waren hervorragend.
besonders vanille und mango hinterliessen einen bleibenden eindruck.

sie waren alle so weich und butterig,
gar nicht fettig und sonderlich "kaubar".
sie schmolzen in deinem gaumen.

und das mango karamell.
süss, aber gleichzeitig spritzig.
purer frucht geschmack.
gar nicht dieser gekochte frucht geschmack, 
sondern überaus frisch, als wenn du direkt in eine reife frucht beisst.

aber bei 112 euro pro kilo ein teurer luxus.

...

Jaques Genin
133 Rue de Turenne  
75003 Paris, Frankreich



Friday, November 25, 2011

soft pumpkin caramels. weicher kürbis karamell.




a bite
your teeth glide through 
like butter

spicey
slightly nutty
like the pumpkin

vanilla notes
smooth as silk
light caramel

...

a perfect fall version of your all time favorite caramel recipe.
what's better than to curl up with a tea, a book and some of these caramels?


soft pumpkin caramels

adapted from this food52 recipe

125g cream
75g pumpkin puree
1/8 tsp cinnamon
big dash of nutmeg
pinch of ginger and cloves and salt

100g sugar
85g corn syrup or glucose
60g maple syrup
30g water

35g butter
dash of fresh lemon juice


heat cream, pumpkin and spices.
keep warm over low heat.
mix sugars and water in a heavy bottom pan (i use a cast-iron pan).
over medium heat bring your mixture to a boil.
using a candy thermometer heat until 117 degrees celcius, then add the warm cream/pumpkin mix.
reheat back to 115 degrees celcius, then take from heat and add the butter and the lemon juice.
stir until incorporated. 
immediately pour into silicon forms or a buttered pan.
let cool completely before cutting and wrapping.


notes:

be sure to use a heavy bottom dish, ideal are pans or dishes out of cast iron.
they spread the heat evenly and your candy mixture will not burn as quickly than in a "normal" pan.

i know you can read about all the different stages of sugar and how you do not need a thermometer because you can do the stage test in water.
well, yes, but before you have realized your test candy has the right consistency, your candy mixture will have cooked a few more degrees. 
to save yourself a great frustration, use a candy thermometer to get the right temperature and candy stage you are aiming for.

how long does all this cooking take?
you might have noticed that my instructions do not include any lengths of time.
i could tell you that the first step took around 15 minutes, the second step another 10 minutes.
but this might mislead you: every stove top is different, every pan is different. 
and depending on how much you make and how hot your stove is, the cooking times will vary.
so be patient, stick by you pan, watch your sugar like a hawk and have some good music to hum along to while you are waiting for the darn temperature to climb.





ein biss
deine zähne gleiten durch
 wie butter


würzig
leicht nussig
wie der kürbis

vanille noten
geschmeidig wie seide
heller karamell

...
eine perfekte herbstliche version eines karamell klassikers.
was könnte besser sein als sich mit einem tee, einem guten buch und einigen dieser karamellbonbons zu vergnügen?



weicher kürbis karamell

adaptiert von diesem food52 rezept

125g sahne
75g kürbis püree
1/8 teelöffel zimt
grosse prise muskat
prise ingwer und nelken und salz

100g zucker
85g glucose sirup
60g ahorn sirup
30g wasser

35g butter
spritzer frischen zitronensaft

sahne, kürbis und gewürze erhitzen.
bei schwacher hitze warm halten.
die zucker und das wasser in einem schweren topf erhitzen (ich benutze eine guss eiserne pfanne).
bringe die mischung bei mittlerer hitze zum kochen.
benutze ein zucker thermometer und koche deine mischung bis sie 117 grad celcius erreicht hat, füge nun den sahne/kürbis mix hinzu.
erhitze deine mischung nochmals auf 115 grad celcius, nehme sie von der herdplatte und füge die butter und die zitrone hinzu.
rühre dein karamell bis alles emulgiert ist.
giesse dein karamell sofort in silicon formen oder in eine gebutterte form.
lass dein karamell komplett auskühlen bis sie geschnitten und verpackt werden.

notizen:

benutze einen schweren topf mit einem dicken boden, am besten eignen sich guss eiserne töpfe oder pfannen.
sie verteilen die hitze gleichmässig und dein zucker brennt nicht so schnell an.

ich weiss dass die verschiedenen zuckerstufen überall nachzulesen sind und das erklärt wird dass man kein zuckerthermometer braucht weil man den konsistenz test im wasser machen kann.
naja, das geht schon, aber bevor du begriffen hast dass dein "test"zucker soweit ist, ist deine eigentliche zuckerlösung schon ein paar grad weiter gekocht.
um dir viel frustration zu ersparen kann ich dir nur empfehlen ein zucker thermometer zu benutzen und in dem zuge, die richtige temperatur und zuckerstufe zu ermitteln.

wie lange dauert das kochen?
wie du vielleicht erkannt hast, fehlen bei meiner anleitung zeitangaben.
ich könnte erzählen, dass der erste schritt 15 minuten und der zweite 10 minuten gedauert hat.
aber das würde nur verwirren: jede herdplatte ist anders, jeder topf ist anders.
und je nachdem wie viel du kochst und wie heiss dein herd ist, brauchst du verschieden lang für den kochvorgang.
also sei geduldig, bleib bei deiner pfanne, passe akribisch auf deinen zucker auf und mach dir ein bisschen gute musik zum mitsummen an, während du darauf wartest dass die temperatur steigt.


jardin du luxembourg. @paris.



some impressions of the beautiful jardin du luxembourg.

i savored pierre hermé's vanille infinment tarte here

and let my mind wander.

...

einige impressionen von dem wunderschönen jardin du luxembourg.

hier genoss ich pierre hermé's vanille infinment tarte

und hab meine seele baumeln lassen.

...

jardin du luxembourg
6e Arrondissement
 75006 Paris, Frankreich








pierre hermé. @paris.




may i introduce you:
 
pierre hermé

and

infinment vanille.

composed of vanillas from madagascar, tahiti and mexico
a vanilla white chocolate ganache and a ultra light vanilla mascarpone creme
nestled on a crisp vanilla pâte sablée.

priced at 6,90 euro a piece, it is an expensive piece of indulgence.

it's worth it. 

the vanilla aromas are so smooth and pure.
even though this piece of pastry is chock full of calories (butter, chocolate, mascarpone)
it feels light.
the creme can be compared to a cloud.

it leaves you licking your fingers.

...
also worth mentioning:

hermé's macarons and his croissant isaphan.

priced at around 1,80 euro per macaron, 
dig into his croissant instead.

his macarons are good, but not great for that price.
i would recommend ladurée's or the grande épicerie's macarons.

now to the croissant.
perfect buttery, flaky composition of the puff pastry.

i usually do not like anything flavored with rose,
most of the rose flavored items taste like soap to me.
not this croissant.

rose-flavoured almond paste, compote made with raspberries from the haut-vivarais region and litchis.
topped off by a rose glaze and candied raspberries.

a delight.


...


darf ich vorstellen:
 
pierre hermé

und

infinment vanille.

zusammengesetzt aus vanille aus madagascar, tahiti nd mexico
eine weisse schokoladen vanille ganache und eine unglaublich leichte mascarpone vanille creme
gebettet auf einer knusprigen vanille pâte sablée.

der preis beträgt 6,90 euro pro stück; sicherlich ein teurer genuss.

aber es lohnt sich. 

die vanilla aromen sind so geschmeidig und pur.
obwohl dieses gebäck voller kalorien steckt (butter, schokolade, mascarpone)
fühlt es sich leicht an.
die konsistenz der creme ist das was ich mir unter einer wolke vorstelle.

es hinterlässt dich mit abgeleckten fingern.

...

auch eine erwähnung wert:

hermé's macarons und sein croissant isaphan.
mit dem stolzen preis von 1,80 euro pro macaron, 
fällt die wahl eher auf sein croissant.

seine macarons sind gut, aber nicht herausrragend für diesen preis.
ich empfehle ladurée's oder die der grande épicerie.

nun zum croissant.
perfekte butterige, blättrige komposition des blätterteiges.

normalerweise bin ich kein freund von rosen geschmack.
die meisten produkte mit rosen aroma oder geschmack schmecken nach seife, finde ich.
nicht dieses croissant.

marzipan mit rosen geschmack, kompott aus himbeeren der haut-vivarais region und litchis.
gekrönt durch ein rosen zuckerguss und kandierte himbeerstückchen.
ein vergnügen.


...


pierre hermé
72 Rue Bonaparte
75006 Paris, Frankreich





Tuesday, November 22, 2011

red currant torte.




crisp
bitter orange

chewy
cinnamon & nuts

tangy
red currant capsule

soft
cream cheese cloud

...

a tiny special occasion cake.

well, my occasion was an excess of red currants.
hence, the cake.

a perfect size for a small company.
the looks of this elegant torte,
will astound everybody.



red currant torte


makes one cake, 18 cm in diameter

pâte brisée:

20g butter
12g powdered sugar
dash tsp vanilla extract
pinch of salt
30g all-purpose flour
orange marmalade

nut layer:
50g hazelnuts, roasted and ground
50g granulated sugar
35g eggs
dash of cinnamon

raspberry jam


red currant capsule:

40g egg yolks (of two eggs)
20g sugar
20g marzipan
1/8 tsp vanilla extract

60g egg whites (of two eggs)
40g sugar
pinch of salt

70g flour

15g butter, melted

75g red currants


cream cheese filling:

175g cream cheese
 50g granulated sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
2 leaves of gelatine (4g)
50g heavy cream, liquid
150g heavy cream, whipped


preheat oven to 180 degrees celcius.
make pâte brisée: 
cream butter, sugar, eggs, vanilla and salt.
add flour, blend well.
chill before rolling it out.
roll out in a round shape, around 18 cm in diameter. 
 cut out with a cake ring.
pork with a fork to avoid air pockets in the dough.
bake for 7-8 minutes or until golden brown.
in the meantime prepare the nut filling:
combine all ingredients.

wait for your pâte brisée to cool slightly. 
spread with orange marmalade.
seal the cake ring with paper to avoid a leaking of the nut filling.

cook your nut filling until it has reached around 70-80 degrees celcius.
pour onto your baked pâte brisée and into the cake ring.
bake for around 12 minutes or until browned and firm to the touch.

while baking, prepare the red currant capsule:
in two bowls, divide egg whites and yolks. 
add the listed ingredients to each.
weigh the flour and melt the butter, set aside.
first, beat the egg yolk mixture until light and frothy.
then beat the egg whites until they are stiff and form soft peaks.
with a spatula, carefully fold in the egg whites to the egg yolks.
when they are fully incorporated, add the flour, then the butter.
lastly, fold in the red currants.
spread on a baking sheet, barely 5-10 mm in height.
turn up your oven to 210 degrees celcius.
bake your capsule for 7-9 minutes, or until it is golden brown and springs back to the touch.
remove from the oven and let cool.

when cooled, cut out with cake ring to the proper size.
you should be able to cut out two circles.
spread raspberry jam onto the nut filling. 
place one capsule onto it.
press down slightly.
have the other capsule handy.

now prepare the cream cheese filling:
soak your gelatine leaves in cold water.
whip your cream. set aside.
cream your cream cheese with the sugar, vanilla and liquid cream over a warm water bath.
remove from the warmth.
take your gelatine out of the water, and liquefy it in the microwave and quickly stir into your cream cheese mix.
fold in you cream.
take half of your cream mixture and spread into your cake ring onto the capsule.
place the other capsule on top and press down firmly.
add the rest of the cream and spread evenly.
now take the tip of a knife, palate or the rounded side of a spoon and tap the surface of the cake to make riffles.
let the cake firm up at least two hours in the refrigerator, then dash with cinnamon and decorate with red currants.

notes:

you may prepare everything that is baked a day in advance, just make sure to wrap plastic wrap around them.

i used orange marmalade in the first step. 
if i would make the cake again, i would use raspberry jam or some sweet jam.
the red currants are tangy enough, the cake does not need more bitterness.

instead of using cream cheese, feel free to substitute with mascarpone or another full fat cheese.


Tuesday, November 15, 2011

chocolate pecan pie.







layer upon layer

crunchy crust
crisp
crumbly

rich filling
thick
viscous

chocolate
black as night

pecans
bedded in sweet filling
toasted
nutty aroma wafting through my chambers

...

i was intrigued immediately
my favorite pie
and one of my favorite ingredients and commodities
combined to perfection

be sure to use good quality chocolate
with a high cocoa content

enjoy the smell of the pie cooling off

it is truly addictive



chocolate pecan pie

crust:

125g flour
65g shortening
3 tbsp sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp ice water

filling: 

60g dark chocolate (at least 72% cocoa)
200g light corn syrup or glucose
30g butter
150g brown sugar
50g sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1/4 tsp salt
3 eggs
150g pecan nuts


to make the crust:
weigh flour, sugar and salt into a bowl with the shortening.
with a fork or a cutter, cut and crumble the shortening into small pieces.
make sure you do not have any big chunks anymore and that everything is covered with the flour mix.
add the ice water (water plus an ice cube) and toss with a fork.
to combine more, press together gently with your hand.
wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a quarter of an hour.
roll out with a rolling pin and with help of floured cotton cloth on the rolling surface. 
press into your pie dish, making a wavy border with your fingers or indentations with a fork on the outer pie crust.
refrigerate.

preheat the oven to 180 degrees celcius.

to make the filling:
melt the chocolate over a water bath or carefully in the microwave.
set aside.
combine corn syrup, butter, sugar and spices and heat on the stove top until everything is combined.
take from the heat and mix in the chocolate.
then beat in the eggs.
pour the filling into the pie shell and sprinkle it with the pecans.
place in the preheated oven and bake for 40-45 minutes, or until the filling has risen, does not "jiggle" in the middle anymore and the pecans are nice and toasted.

eat plain or serve with whipped cream for pure decadence. 



Sunday, November 13, 2011

red beet brownies.



a strong rooty smell
awaits you if you breath in strongly.

do not be detoured.

the rich, powerful dark red
gushes into the batter.

it turns a bright fuchsia.

the warm melted chocolate
flows into the composition,
a deep brownish red emerges.

...

this melange of red beet juice
and dark bitter chocolate
makes for a moist, special brownie variation.

decorate with some powdered sugar,
a chocolate curl
or leave it as it is
in it's simplicity.


red beet brownies

55g dark chocolate (70% at least)
66g butter
2 eggs
150g sugar
125g beet juice
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
150g flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt

preheat the oven to 180 degrees celcius.
line a pan with baking paper.
round or square, whichever you prefer, around 22-24 cm in diameter.
melt the chocolate and the butter together over low heat.
beat the eggs with the sugar until light and fluffy.
add the beet juice and combine.
add the melted butter and chocolate mixture and the vanilla extract.
mix.
mix in the flour, baking powder and salt, as well.
pour into your pan and spread evenly.
bake for around 35 minutes, allowing the middle to be a bit soft.
let cool, enjoy with a some freshly whipped cream.


Tuesday, November 8, 2011

chocolate rice krispie bars with candied peanuts.




sticky
chewy
crunchy

chocolate
peanuts
 caramel

a pop in your mouth
marshmallow strings
nutty delight

...

this is not your ordinary rice crispie treat recipe.
 
an extraordinary combination of chocolate and peanuts.
 
chocolate puffs draped in marshmallow. 
 
peanuts enveloped in a crunchy caramel coating. 
 
 ...
 

chocolate rice krispie bars with candied peanuts

candied peanuts:

200g unsalted peanuts
145g granulated sugar
50ml water


45g butter
1/2 tsp himalayan salt
1 pkg. marshmallows (300g)
6 cups chocolate rice krispies (200g)
 1 1/2 cups candied peanuts (200g)


make the candied peanuts:
combine the peanuts with the water and sugar in a heavy bottom pan.
melt the sugar over medium heat, stirring all the while.
this process will take at least 10 minutes, be patient and do not rush.
at one point of time the sugar will seize up and become dry.
keep on stirring and pushing the sugar cristals around.
after a few minutes the sugar will become liquid again and caramelize.
when the peanuts are completely covered in sugar and have a nice golden brown color, remove them from the heat and spread onto a silicon mat or backing paper.
let cool.
if the nuts stick together, break them away from each other.

to prepare the rice crispies:
melt the marshmallows, the butter and the salt over medium heat.
when fully liquid, add the rice crispies and the candied peanuts.
stir well, then spread in a low pan, around 20x40cm.
let cool.


notes:

you'll have some candied peanuts left over - they make an addictive snack!


Sunday, November 6, 2011

white chocolate tarte.






smooth as silk
creamy
no resistance

sugar cristals
a grainy texture
a contrast

a burst of liquid
the thin skin 
of the tangy fruit bursts

crispy crust
the butter taste
melts with cream
and a hint of salt

...

not your everyday tarte.
this is special.

it looks elegant.
it is ever so rich.

and the fruit sparkle like jewels against the white inside.



white chocolate tarte

one tarte, 22 cm in diameter

pâte brisée:

100g butter
60g powdered sugar
10g eggs
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
large pinch of salt
165g all-purpose flour
 
 
crunchy crust:
60g salted butter crackers
45g melted butter
50g sugar
15g flour


filling:
150g fine white chocolate (i used valrhona)
500g schmand (24% fat, you can also use cream cheese or crème fraîche)


make pâte brisée: 
cream butter, sugar, eggs, vanilla and salt.
add flour, blend well.
chill for at least 1 hour before rolling it out.
 then roll the dough around 3-4mm thick, then press into your tarte form.
poke the bottoms with a fork, to avoid air bubbles.
bake for around 15 minutes, or until golden-brown at 180 degrees celcius.
let cool.
 
make the crunchy crust:
 in blender or food processor, crush and grind the crackers finely. 
melt the butter (in microwave). 
add ground crackers, sugar and flour to butter and mix well.
spoon the crust mix into the mini cheesecake forms and press down evenly.
chill in fridge.
prepare the filling:
melt the chocolate over a water bath or at low setting in microwave.
dissolve the chocolate completely.
make sure it has around 40 degrees celcius.
add the schmand and blend well until smooth. 
pour into tarte shell and spread evenly with a spatula. 
let firm, at least two hours.

garnish with fruit, i used blueberries and red currants.


Thursday, November 3, 2011

impressions, a market and great cookies. @paris.


please join me 
and take in my paris impressions.

the weather was gorgeous.

the light was huge.

the city was beautiful.







 
 i trailed over a street market near les halles.

the finest fruit, veggies, fish, pastry you ever saw.




 

and then i stumbled on a cookie shop.


laura todd sells muffins and brownies as well.

i decided on a white chocolate chip cookie, 
cost 2,40 euro.

it was worth it. 

the cookie had a great texture 
and you could tell it was made out of the finest ingredients.

f.y.i. the Épicerie has laura's cookies as well.

très bon.